CDG Hoodie Fabric Story You Did Not Know
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It is no surprise that Comme des Garçons created an identity through calculated and intentional disruption of the norms of fashion. The philosophy behind the creation of the brand by Rei Kawakubo was that of an idea which was conveyed by one statement: A piece of fabric has to do more than just cover the body. This philosophy is embedded in every CDG hoodie. The brand obsessively chooses textiles for tactile and visual qualities. The difference is felt the first time you wear one. In a CDG piece, fabric is never a background detail, it's a statement of design.
The Japanese Cotton, Uncommon Weight
The key to the CDG hoodies is the Japanese-milled cotton—the type of cotton used for garments is quite different. In contrast to the usual combing of cotton mills in Japan, which completely discards shorter fibers, the fibers can be of mixed lengths. commedesgarrcon.comresults in a thread that is stronger and smoother in appearance. The fabric keeps its shape for hundreds of times without sagging and pill formation. Cotton weights used by CDG for their heavy weight hoodies range from 380 to 420 GSM. That density forms the brand's signature dropped architectural silhouette that's known worldwide.
The unique blend that makes a CDG Hoodie really special.
Streetwear brands typically use 100% cotton/polyester fabric to keep costs down. CDG engineers its blends differently, including the use of modal or Tencel in addition to high quality ring spun cotton. Whereas pure cotton can't add the drape and softness that Modal does. The introduction of Tencel creates a more moisture-controlled fabric, and provides a slight sheen in natural light. This combination results in a surface that is not prone to wrinkling as much as single-fiber surfaces. When you're sporting a CDG hoodie, it's obvious how carefully the coloring has been handled to influence the end hand-feel of the product.
The process as the name suggests is the dyeing of garments
Instead of piece dyeing, CDG often dye garments in runs for its hoodie manufacturing. Garment-dyeing is where the finished sewn hoodie is dyed as a complete garment. This is a technique that produces soft tonal differences between the seams, panels and ribbed cuff of the hoodie. The end result is a depth of chroma that can't be matched vis-à-vis yarn dyed or piece dyed fabrics. The raised stitching has a different feel to it than the flat panels, creating subtle, but interesting, contrast. That uneven absorption is not a defect, it's a texture intended that way, and it's a deliberate part of CDG design.
The Fleece Interior and Its Hidden Engineering.
Flip a CDG hoodie over, and you find yourself with a very purposeful interior surface. The fleece lining is brushed to a uniform and controlled length of fibers. CDG defines the direction and density of the brushed inside surface with millimeter accuracy. This allows for better retention of heat but also keeps the outer shape of the garment from becoming too bulky. The inside also absorbs moisture from the body while exercising or changes of weather. Most people who wear a hoodie never check the inner workings of the hoodie, but the secret engineering behind the hoodie is what's responsible for so much of its high cost.
We are all sewing machines and there are many things we need to know about them.
CDG production teams set stitch tension much tighter than the tolerances used in the industry to make mass garments. For heavy fleece, high tension stitching would cause puckering of the material and eventually change the silhouette of the garment. If seams are sewn using low tension on the same fabric, they will easily come apart with frequent use and stress. CDG technicians experiment with various tension settings on each new batch of fabric to ensure it is produced as needed. The best setting maintains both the shape and the outside smoothness of the hooded shirt. While this is not something that can be seen, it is significant in the sense that the hoodie would age differently if this was not the case.
CDG Fabric evolves with you as you use it
CDG hoodies have a distinctive wearer's patina that cannot be replicated by the mass-produced fleece jackets. The quality cotton fibers slowly match your own individual move patterns with time. Friction-prone areas soften and will have a subtle sheen which seems like it was on purpose and not worn down. The article will actually fit the wearer's posture, arm range and sitting style with repeated use. This is not degradation, but a feature of high-quality long-staple cotton fabric. This is a sought-after feature in vintage CDG items, and it is a feature that is actively sought in used CDG items.
What kind of cotton is used in CDG's hoodies?
CDG mainly produces Japanese milled long-staple cotton that is ring spun for its high strength and surface density.
A CDG hoodie seems to weigh more than other brand hoodies.
CDG is made with higher GSM fabric than is found on the market; 380-420 GSM.
What does it mean to dye with garments, and do CDG use it?
Yes — when the garment is dyed after construction, there is deliberate difference in tone through seams (a hoodie).
Is the CDG hoodie material ageable?
Yep, as the long staple cotton starts to conform to the wearer's body, it does acquire a unique shine and hand feel.
Does CDG hoodie have a different fleece lining than regular hoodies?
CDG defines the brushed nap direction and fiber height that results in significant improvement in the warmth and moisture management of the nap.
Why is the tension of the stitch a concern in the making of a hoodie?
Puckering or seam failure is caused by incorrect stitch tension and CDG tests each new batch of fabric before production commences.
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